When I grew up on 45th Street in Newport Beach CA we would all body surf at the wedge and think nothing of it. What I recall is the intense drop off at the end of each ride and doing the "tuck and roll" on the sand and getting up with a load of sand in my pants. Sure we got a lot of scrapes and bruises but as young men we hardly noticed that aspect. We just had a load of fun. Being watermen there was nothing scary about the Wedge for us.
Just drop down and roll under and everything will be ok...
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